Why I love the outback 

The outback is hot. It’s dusty. There’s nobody there. It’s boring. I hear it all the time from fellow backpackers. They bemoan long dull drives across the Nullarbor, and endless days spent on the Stuart highway. They talk about the incessant red dirt, the copious amount of flies, the flat barren landscape. And I understand their complaints. The outback isn’t for everybody. But in my opinion experiencing the outback is one of the best ways to truly understand the Australian spirit-the stubborn determination, the sense of humour, the camaraderie. 
We had only just begun our journey up the Oodnadatta track when the political activism of the area became clear. I’ve often heard it argued that the outback is a perfect place for nuclear testing and dumping of nuclear waste because “there’s no one there” (and it’s certainly been used that way in the past). But here we were in the outback seeing graffiti condemning uranium mining in Roxby Downs, protesting against the idea of nuclear power being introduced in Australia, and clearly crying out against the idea that there is no one in the outback who could be affected by nuclear activity. I have to be honest-I don’t know enough about nuclear energy to have a clear opinion on it. But I was immediately hit by the fact that central Australia is a place with a deep history-decades of revolting against mining, nuclear testing, and US military presence show an underlying love of the land and a sense of community even in a space so vast. 

The infrastructure of the outback never fails to amaze me. Things that we take for granted now-like being able to drive across the country-are only available to us because of the hard work of so many Australians. We met a couple who worked on bitumening the Nullarbor. They told us about living in their car with a small baby, carting all their things across the unforgiving landscape on the then unsealed bumpy highway. We marvelled at stories of the old Ghan railway, of the passengers disembarking in Oodnadatta and being carried the remaining 600 kilometres by camels. We learnt about the Birdsville mailman and the challenges presented by something as simple as delivering a letter. I was so impressed by these people who were so determined to make a life in the outback and who were so devoted to their country that they worked so hard to connect it. 

But to me the biggest icon of Australian determination is the Dog proof fence. At over five thousand kilometres long, the Dingo fence is the longest fence on earth! It was built all the way back in 1885 to stop Dingos from entering pastoral land and eating sheep, and it’s been maintained until today! Now, I don’t know about you but if I were a sheep farmer and I arrived in the outback and saw all the challenges-irrigation, infertile soil, native predators- I would have given up immediately and decided to eat kangaroo instead (which totally would have been more environmentally friendly, by the way) but no-the stubborn Australian spirit decided the best option would be to hand build the longest fence on earth. I can’t even explain to you how amazing I find this simple wire fence. We saw it all the way back on the Nullarbor, again in Coober Pedy, and we will one day see it again in Queensland. I don’t think anything can define white Australian culture quite the way the Dingo fence does. 

So with all of that said, I love the outback. I love it because it connects me to what it means to be an Australian. I don’t think I will ever consider myself fully Australian, but having experienced the outback I feel like I understand Australian patriotism, the sense of adventure and fearlessness, and the love of the land that drives people to live in the craziest of environments. 

Lessons from seven months on the road 

In February we set off on the biggest trip of our lives. With few solid plans we were heading off to explore every corner of this huge country. I knew we would learn a lot on this journey, but I didn’t realise just how transformative it would be. 

We hit bumps in the road immediately. The campsite we wanted to stay at was full. The camping store accidentally kept our gas bottle attachment when they filled it up and we couldn’t cook. Our clothes was impossible to get to and Alex spent our first night hacking away a hatch so we could access them. 

There was major flooding. We had to buy rain jackets in the middle of summer. I wondered if I would ever see blue skies again. 

The main highway was knocked out. Whole road networks were inaccessible. We backtracked hundreds of kilometres. We took major detours on unsealed roads.
There were times we wondered if we were crazy. If we were going to be able to continue. When the combination of weather and mosquito bites drive us to the brink of insanity.

But in between every bump were adventures, beautiful views, long lazy breakfasts, and days full of cuddles and kisses.

We began to meet amazing people. People with so many stories and knowledge to share. People passionate about what they did and people that embraced us so warmly we felt like family. People that taught us their crafts.

Photo courtesy of @kelllyross

We did amazing hikes and saw beautiful vistas. We watched sunrises from our bed and saw so much wildlife. We found a piece of home everywhere we went.

We learnt practical things like how to paint walls or weed a garden. We learnt how to take care of baby kangaroos and check pouches by the roadside. But we also learnt so much about each other and ourselves. We’ve grown as a couple. We’ve learnt how to give love to total strangers and to accept their generosity. We’ve made friends all over the country, and met people from all over the world.

But most of all we’ve learned to accept that those bumps in the road will always happen. We’ve learned to go with the flow more. To get up in the morning with no idea of where we’ll stay that night and not be the slightest bit worried about it. We’ve learnt to live a more stripped back lifestyle, closer to nature-less waste, less stress, less of the nonsense and more of the important stuff. 

Our journey is far from over. We are still thousands of kilometres from home. We’re currently at a yoga retreat in the outskirts of Sydney, meeting amazing people from all over the world and having experiences I never imagined I’d have. 

Plastic Free Life On The Road

Those of you who follow us on Facebook will know that we recently took part in Plastic Free July; a month long challenge which encourages participants to refuse single use plastics. We were unsure as to how difficult this challenge would be while on the road, but we thought it was worth a shot! We see so much plastic on the side of highways, in campsites, and on beaches and it drives me a little bit insane. The more we thought about the challenge the more I realised how much of today’s products come exclusively in plastic: whether it’s cherry tomatoes and berries, dairy products, or toilet paper. The month wasn’t without its difficulties and there was definitely some unexpected plastic, but overall I think we managed to reduce our plastic usage by about 95%. Now that the challenge is over we have relaxed some things, but there are also lots of newly formed habits that we won’t be letting go of! Here’s some super simple steps to living a less plasticy life! 

1. Remember your reusable grocery bags.

This is the easiest way to avoid plastic. Single use grocery bags are horrible for the environment. They never fully break down but they do fall apart into tiny pieces that animals end up eating. We’ve been using our own grocery bags for quite a while but we used to forget to bring them quite often. During July our plastic usage was at the forefront of our minds and we always remembered our bags. If you do forget why not just put your groceries loose in your trolley and pack them directly into your van? It’s one benefit of having your kitchen on wheels! 

2. Avoid plastic produce bags.

Have you ever questioned why you put your bananas into a plastic bag only to take them out again when you get home? There are lots of reusable produce bag options available but we just went without. For small things like green beans we used the paper mushroom bags. We also avoided all prepackaged produce. It turns out this is often the cheaper option-loose mushrooms are so much cheaper, but for some reason I used to always buy them prepackaged without even thinking about it! 

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What a plastic free cart looks like

3. Take the time for a dine in coffee.

It’s estimated that in Australia over 1 billion takeaway coffee cups are disposed of every year. These cups are plastic lined and don’t biodegrade and few recycling plants are able to process them. We travel slowly and are rarely in a rush to get anywhere. Going out for coffee is a treat for us so we choose to dine in and avoid plastic that way. If you’re someone that has a takeaway coffee every morning or like your coffee on the go, invest in a keep cup. Lots of coffee shops offer a discount if your use your own cup! It doesn’t have to be an official keep cup either- a cheap travel mug works just the same.

4. No straws please!

Our oceans are filled with single use plastic straws. Sometimes the plastic straws even come wrapped in plastic! I don’t know about you, but my arms are strong enough to lift my glass all the way to my mouth. Lots of bars and restaurants are getting involved by only giving straws by request but if you want to be sure to avoid plastic just let them know you don’t want a straw (explaining your reason might even get them on board!) 

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5. Use a refillable water tank 

Last year when we travelled in California we bought big single use water jugs from the supermarket. Now we have a 23 litre water tank that we refill. We use the Wikicamps app to find places with potable water(you usually find it near dump points) or fill it up whenever we’re in a caravan park. Not only does this avoid lots of plastic waste, but it’s saved us a ton of money! 

6. Buy meat at the butcher/deli

Meat is one of slightly more difficult things to buy plastic free. Prepackaged meat in the supermarket comes in plastic trays . You can bring your own containers and ask the butcher to fill them, or just ask them to use as little plastic as possible. The same goes for bread-buy it in a bakery. 

7. Don’t get downhearted 

There were times during July when I felt like our efforts where completely futile. When we were in beautiful places completely littered with rubbish. When we were served unexpected plastic. When I really wanted bread and there were no plastic free options. It’s important to remember that every little step you take does make a difference. Small changes add up to make big impacts. Plastic free July and the War on Waste documentaries are what pushed Coles and Woolworths to #banthebag. Your choices as a consumer do matter. Equally, it’s not your fault that the world is so full of plastic. Don’t beat yourself up if you have to buy something in plastic. We didn’t give up dairy even though we couldn’t find non plastic options. We recently needed some car maintenance products which all came in plastic- we just couldn’t avoid it. The fact that you’re even reading this post shows that you care-which is more that can be said for a lot of people. 

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Sometimes despite our best efforts we still accumuluated plastic

Is plastic free living more expensive?

The answer to this one isn’t exactly straight forward. Some of the products we usually buy in plastic were more expensive-such as peanut butter in glass or pasta in cardboard boxes. However, over all our groceries were cheaper in July because we couldn’t buy any expensive processed foods. Our diets were also really healthy and mostly plant based! Buying food in bulk stores can also help you to save money and reduce your waste, while also supporting local business-win win!

If you do find reducing your plastic usage too difficult I would definitely encourage you to try to pick up plastic litter when you see it. Nobody likes to see litter but often we complain about it and forget that we can actually do something about it! We particularly try to pick up litter when we see it near waterways, because plastic can do so much damage when it enters the water. Good luck!

Should you visit the Eyre Peninsula?

Many people that we met along the Nullarbor were planning on driving right past the Eyre peninsula and making a bee line for Adelaide. One couple that we met informed us that there was less to do on the peninsula than there was on the Nullarbor. We decided we would go experience it and make that judgement for ourselves.

We had an awesome time there and here’s why….

Crazy coastline

Í don’t know if we’ve ever been somewhere that has a sculpture park along the Cliffside, but it was a pretty cool experience! It’s just one example of the diverse coastline you’ll find here on the Eyre peninsula.

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Cliffside sculptures in Elliston


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Wild waves in Coffin bay

National parks

There are two beautiful national parks on the Eyre peninsula- Coffin Bay, and Lincoln national park. They both contain beachside camping, awesome fishing, hiking, wildlife, and picturesque vistas. Coffin bay also has plenty of tracks for four wheel drive enthusiasts!

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Skipping rocks in Lincoln national park

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Sunset at Yangie bay lookout, Coffin bay



Coffin bay is known for its oyster so its certainly worth visiting if you’re a seafood lover. Port Lincoln is home to our favourite bakery of the trip (and we have tried a fair few)- Hage’s bakery. Try their donut of the week.

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First breakfast out of the trip at The Rogue and Rascal cafe,Port Lincoln. Did not disappoint!


We saw so many emus and kangaroos in the national parks in the Eyre peninsula. We woke up one night to a kangaroo digging through our bin. Emus roamed freely throughout the campsite. If you’re feeling particularly eager  for a unique wildlife encounter you can go shark cage diving in Port Lincoln.

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Emus in Coffin bay


We were surprised to find that there is a wealth of history throughout the Eyre peninsula. There are many memorials for the “founder of south Australia”, Matthew Flinders. The tale of his explorations are woven through the peninsula, in the names of features (such as Point Avoid) and in the landscape itself (such as the areas of land he cleared to try to farm).

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A memorial to Matthew Flinders atop Stamford Hill



There are great hiking networks throughout the  peninsula, including the investigator trail which is an 89 kilometre trail following Matthew Flinders’ original exploration. Lincoln national park contains one of Australia’s top 40 great walks- the Stamford Hill hike. It’s a relatively easy walk with stunning views at the summit.

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The view from the top


One of the most awesome things in the Eyre peninsula was the amount of volunteers who gave up their time for their community. From the volunteer run book store in Port Lincoln to the blacksmith museum in Tumby Bay whose volunteers couldn’t have been more accommodating. It’s amazing that there are so many people willing to invest their time to preserve the history of their communities. It certainly made the Eyre peninsula somewhere that we will always remember.

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Fitzgerald Bay campsite




Guide to Surviving the Nullarbor

The Nullarbor has a pretty infamous reputation for being boring. Spanning a distance of over 1000 kilometres and boasting the honour of containing Australia’s longest, straightest portion of road, it’s no surprise that it’s dreaded by many travelers, particularly when most of them never leave the bitumen. Despite all of this, we had an awesome and unforgettable time driving down the infamous Eyre highway. Here’s our tips for making your drive the ultimate road trip experience.

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I was much too excited when we reached this sign

10. Stop at the roadhouses (even when you don’t need anything)
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The old telegraph station at Eucla- covered in sand dunes

There are ten roadhouses across the Nullarbor and we stopped at all except one of them(sorry Cocklebiddy, we’ll visit you next time!). This was mostly due to my weak bladder, but also because these roadhouses are full of history! From the museum in Baladonia to the telegraph station in Eucla, it’s well worth pulling off the highway to soak up some of the history of this seventy year old road.

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The oldest roadhouse on the highway

9. Geocache

When you’ve had as much as you can handle of road trains and treeless plains, why not stop for a treasure hunt? Geocaching is like an international orienteering system using GPS devices. It’s a good way to break up long drives, experience some nature, and get your mind working.

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Taking a break from the car

8. Watch out for wildlife

If you keep your eyes peeled while crossing the Nullarbor you’ll see some awesome wildlife. We saw eagles, dolpins, kangaroos, and several types of lizards. We drove through a plague of locusts and saw our first wombat (it still counts if it’s dead, right?). In the winter months the Nullarbor is a hot spot for whale watching, as whales enter the head of the bight to give birth.

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We even found a giant kangaroo!

7. Get your golf on

Did you know the world’s biggest golf course is located on the Nullarbor? Beginning in Ceduna there is a hole located in every roadhouse as far as Kalgoorlie. The Nullarbor Links is a genuine golf course aimed at golf enthusiasts, but even if you’re not interested in partaking it’s worth stopping and taking a look at the information plaques. They often contain interesting information, like the story of the Nullarbor nymph.

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The biggest windmill in the world at Penong

6. Play “I Spy”

For some reason the Nullarbor is filled with wacky sights. You don’t expect to see art in the middle of nowhere, but it’s there if you look for it. There are multiple interesting trees to look out for along the highway. We tried to spot as many as we could but failed miserably. Maybe you can do a better job!

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A whale of a time

Things to spot

-Teddy Bear tree

-Teacup tree

-Underwear Tree

-Christmas Tree

-Bottle Tree

-Flag Tree

5. Go spelunking
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An award winning sign

Did you know the Nullarbor is a huge area of limestone known as a karst region? Because of this there are numerous caves, sink holes and even blow holes. Some of these caves are closed to the public but some of them are open to exploration. If spelunking isn’t your thing you can still go and peer into these amazing cave systems. We really enjoyed the Koonalda caves. There is an inland blow hole there that blows cold air out at you. I found myself wishing I had a Marilyn Monroe style dress!

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Koonalda Cave

4. Look up
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A beautiful Nullarbor sunset

One of the things we were really excited for as we began our Nullarbor journey was the night skies. I’m glad to say we weren’t disappointed. The stars across the Nullarbor were pretty amazing. I saw the milky way for the very first time and we had an awesome time laying on the car bonnet and spotting constellations. The days might be hot, fly filled, and consist of endless driving, but the night skies are truly magical.

3. Stop at the Lookouts.
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A view worth stopping for

Sometimes when you’ve settled your butt in the seat for a little while and you’re just focused on getting to wherever you’re planning on setting up camp that night you can be inclined to skip lookouts. I can honestly say that every lookout we stopped at was awesome. Views of the Bunda cliffs, the dessert plain, and even just the highway from a distance as it stretches for miles and miles before you were all real highlights of our time across this infamous stretch of land.

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Our first view of the sea!

2. Visit the old homesteads
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Nanambinia’s front gate

The absolute best and most interesting bits of the Nullarbor for us were our visits to two old homesteads. The first was to Nanambinia, a homestead dating back to 1896 which is unoccupied but is open to the public. You can actually sleep inside the house and use the fire place; there’s even a toilet. However, it’s incredibly creepy! There is still clothes in the laundry baskets and food in the pantry, and the previous visitors had stacked and dressed chairs to look like they were people. It’s a pretty bumpy four wheel drive road to the homestead but it was definitely worth the trip.

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Pranksters at work!

While Nanambinia was awesome it had absolutely nothing on the Koonalda homestead. This old roadhouse and sheep station is a wonderfully preserved part of history. It’s situated on the old Eyre highway. For those that don’t know, when they Eyre highway was sealed in the 1970s they realigned the road, leaving a section of highway North of the current road to deteriorate into dirt track. The Koonalda roadhouse became defunct when the road bypassed it, and now remains open to the public, complete with petrol pump and dozens of old cars that once broke down on the highway.

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The homestead and shearers quarters remain intact and lack the creepy vibe of Nanambinia. In fact, we found the shearer’s quarters to be an awesome place to chill out away from the heat and flies. The sink hole and blow hole which I mentioned above are a short walk from the homestead, and there is a cave about ten kilometres away. We also saw wombat mounds so if you’re lucky you might get to see some of them out and about. Koonalda station felt like going back in time and immersing ourselves in a piece of history for the day.

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The shearer’s quarters-home for a day

And, our number one tip for enjoying your time on the Nullarbor? Drum roll please…

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A walk around Koonalda

Take your time!

It sounds obvious, but everyone we met who hated the Nullarbor had rushed across it and a couple of days. We took a whole week to get from Norseman to Ceduna and I’m so glad we did. We saw a beautiful section of coast, enjoyed the history of the road, observed wildlife, and made awesome memories. In some ways the Nullarbor felt similar to route 66 in its roadtrip worthy-ness. Give yourself time to explore the hidden gems of the area and you’ll have an amazing time.

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A successful border crossing!

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Experience Esperance

Our drive to Esperance was quite the journey. The crazy weather we’ve been experiencing caused a whole string of road closures, including a collapsed bridge on the main highway. We actually had a pretty hard time trying to find a detour between Albany and Esperance. The route we eventually had to take was a massive detour, bringing us all the way to Lake King, along hundreds of kilometres of gravel road, and through a small river. In some ways it was an annoyance to have to go so far out of the way and use so much more fuel, but in other ways it was definitely an adventure. We even got to see some emus crossing the road, which was pretty exciting!
After all that it was certainly a relief to arrive in Esperance where, thankfully, the sun was shining! Better yet, we found that there is a fortune of things to do in the area.From its miles of coastline to its quirky shops, its certainly a town worth visiting!
Experience Esperance

Observatory Point on The Great Ocean Drive

The town of Esperance is situated right by the ocean. The esplanade runs along the length of the bay, and is a bustling street filled with people walking, fishing, and enjoying the scenery. There are parks, an indoor mini golf course, and jetties to walk down. One of my favourite spots was the Coffee Cat, a coffee van on the esplanade that’s a local favourite. The Esperance museum was surprisingly cool, with a really massive collection of historical items from shells to a whole steam train. It’s situated right next to the museum village which is a model historical village containing some pretty cool unique shops. 

One of our favourite spots in Esperance was the Lucky Bay Brewing company. This brewery is as local as it gets. The barley comes from local farms, each variety of beer is named after a local beach, and the brewery itself is essentially a farm house. The people are friendly, the beer is good, and they can make up one litre cans or growlers to take away. You won’t regret getting a tasting tray.

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The biggest can I’ve ever drank!

Great Ocean Drive

Esperance is famous for its magnificent white sand beaches, and there’s plenty of them to choose from. The Great Ocean Drive is a 40 kilometre circular drive that begins near the centre of town at the Esplanade and winds its way around the wealth of perfect beaches in the area. The are plenty of look out points, access to four wheel drive beaches, and even a nudist beach along the way! One of the most popular beaches is Twilight Cove, a beautiful bay with sparkling blue water and a large “rock with a hole in it” that people were jumping off of. We had lunch at the picnic tables there and had a lovely walk through the soft sand. This beach is patrolled by life guards so it’s safe for the kids too!
Experience Esperance

The rock with a hole in it

Also on this drive is Esperance’s Pink Lake. Now, if you’ve looked at visiting Esperance you’ve probably seen photos of a strawberry milkshake coloured lake. That’s lake Hillier and it’s located on an island off the coast of Esperance. Pink lake, despite its name, is not nearly as pink. The pink colour of these lakes is caused by a type of bacteria found in salty lakes. Lots of the bacteria coupled with high temperatures equals a very pink lake! Apparently Pink Lake hasn’t been particuarly pink in quite a while. The day we saw it it did have a pale peach kind of colour. Not quite a strawberry milkshake, but still worth taking a look at!
Experience Esperance

The not so Pink Lake

Cape Le Grand

About an hour East of Esperance is Cape Le Grand national park. It’s a place of perfect white beaches and majestic granite peaks, a sprawling space where bushland, mountains and sea all collide to create a haven of nature. The most famous of beaches in the park is Lucky Bay. Home to a friendly family of kangaroos, the whitest beaches in Australia, and a coffee van that whips up your order directly on the beach, it’s no wonder this bay is so popular. Best of all, it has a national park campground that has hot showers, a camp kitchen, and flushing toilets for $10 per person a night! When we were here the recent storms had wreaked havoc on the beach, there was seaweed all over the shore and the sand was almost like mud in parts. But as soon as we got into the water it was beautiful. It felt like we were in Hawaii, surounded by granite peaks and with water so clear we could see our feet, it was an awesome experience.

The Kangaroos are friendly in Cape Le Grand!

If you’re into hiking there’s plenty to do in Cape Le Grand. We were eager to do Frenchman’s Peak, which looked very cool from the ground and promised breathtaking views across the park. But, of course, we were greeted with a thunder storm just as we were planning to set off. Thankfully the park is close enough to home for us to do it another time.
Experience Esperance

Snow White Sand in Cape Le Grand

Cape Arid

Cape Arid is another park that the weather negatively impacted on. The park is mostly four wheel drive and of course the recent rain fall had resulted in plenty of road closure. Nevertheless we camped in one of the more easily accessible campsites in the park, Thomas River Fishery. There are actually two campsites on Thomas River. One that used to belong to the shire, and one that has always belonged to the national park service. Go to the national park one! The shire one needs a serious upgrade in terms of the facilities on offer and they’re both the same price. From both campsites you can walk to the beach, have access to four wheel drive tracks, can see lots of nature, and are generally surrounded by beautiful wildlife.
Experience Esperance

Thomas River in Cape Arid

 Our time in Esperance was unforgettable, punctuated by beautiful scenery, wildlife encounters and awesome food and drink. Without a doubt, there’s something in this gorgeous coastal town for everybody to enjoy.
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Guide to Australia’s Great Southern Region

Experience the great southern on a budget

Our first week of travel has been filled with adventure, hiking, and, unfortunately, a lot of rain. It’s currently the height of summer in Australia but as I write this I’m hiding in the car from the rain and wind. We’ve been trying to make the best of our time in the Great Southern region because, despite the weather, this really is a beautiful part of Western Australia. With a stunning coastline, hikes of all assortment and dozens of four wheel drive tracks, this region truly caters towards the adventurous spirit. We’ve kept this article as a list of free attractions in the Great Southern-perfect for the budget backpacker- but some of the national parks do have entry fees. I thought I’d include them anyway because so many travelers buy national park passes.



Our first stop on our big adventure was D’entrecastreux national park near the town of Walpole. The majority of this park is accessible by four wheel drive only, and the few two wheel drive roads are unsealed, which may be something to consider when driving a rental car! However, when you do get into the park you’ll be greeted by a seriously beautiful and almost untouched coastline. The park is actually quite big and has several entrances. We saw a small portion of it, but we loved it all.

Mandalay beach was a highlight of our time here. From the soft white sand to the visible remains of a shipwreck it definitely scores highly on our list of favourite beaches. There are some cool rock formations here and an island off the shore. We even found a small animal skull! The beach is two wheel drive accessible but it is a gravel road, and quite a corrugated one. We were surprised to find that our beer hadn’t shattered.

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Beautiful Mandalay Beach

We also took a four wheel track drive to long point. This was actually a much longer track than we had anticipated, but it did offer great views of the surrounding beaches. There also seemed to be some hiking trails, and there were some other driving tracks branching off from the main “road.”

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Enjoying the view

I think our favourite spot in the walpole area was the Conspicuous Cliffs. They might sound like something from a Lemony Snickett novel, but these cliffs are a spectacular coastal feature. There are multiple look out points as well as beach access. It was incredibly windy at the look out points! You can also hike part of the bibbulmun track here, so it’s a really good spot for a day trip.

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A blustery day at the cliffs!



Denmark is only about an hour South of Walpole and it’s a really awesome town. There are tonnes of great attractions around here, including a meadery, “chocolate lounge”, and wineries. I have to admit, one of the highlights of Denmark for us was the bakery. It has a whole host of awards to its name and some very interesting options. Alex had a curried kangaroo pie- dubbed the “vindaroo”. It’s a great spot for a budget lunch!

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Fishing in Parry beach

The other great thing about Denmark is Parry’s beach campground. For $15 per site per night this place offers showers, flush toilets, huge sites, and you can have camp fires even in Summer! Best of all it’s right by the beach and it’s part of the bibulmun track. We spent a few days here and we really enjoyed it. One day we walked all the way to Elephant rocks from here. It was about an 18 kilometre round trip and took us a little under three hours each way, but it was such a cool hike. We had miles of beach entirely to ourselves, saw some wildlife, and we felt pretty accomplished when we reached the pristine beach of Green’s pool and Elephant rocks. We also accidentally fell asleep on the beach on the way home, but that’s not important 😉

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Elephant rocks-worth the walk!

Denmark itself is larger than I expected and is situated very prettily on the Denmark river. It seems to be quite geared towards tourists and has lots of interesting shops worth wandering around. My favourites were the Australian Alpaca Centre- a alpaca wool clothing store- and Third Stone Traders, a fair trade and local craft store. The town is definitely worth exploring even if you’re just window shopping.

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Street Art in Denmark



If you’re like me you probably had no idea that Albany was once destined to become the capital of Western Australia. It’s the oldest city is the state and has the rich history to prove it. There’s quite a few museums here but I’ll just focus on the free things for now.

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Albany was beautiful once the sun came out!

First of all there’s cosy corner campground- a totally free campground with drop toilets and beach access. It’s about fifteen minutes outside of Albany and, while basic, it’s pretty awesome for a free spot! We stayed there for a few nights and while the weather wasn’t good enough to really enjoy its proximity to the beach, it was still great to have somewhere free to spend some time.


Albany itself has a free museum which offers a pretty comprehensive overview of Albany’s history. I have to admit I had no idea there was so much learn about the city’s past. We really only visited the museum because we both wanted to use the public toilets there, but it has great colourful exhibits and the friendly staff gave us great ideas for how to spend the rest of our time.


One of the coolest attractions in Albany is The Gap. This is area of rugged coastline where a viewing platform has been built over a gap in the cliffs. From here you can watch the waves wooshing beneath you. It’s pretty wild and might be one to avoid if you’re afraid of heights! The view is great though and the water is a gorgeous colour as it splashes against the rocks. It’s also right by the natural bridge and the blowholes- we brought a picnic and made an afternoon of seeing the sights!

Great Southern

The Wild Waters of The Gap

About an hour outside Albany you’ll find the Stirling Ranges which contain the biggest mountain in the Southern half of WA- Bluff Knoll. We climbed the mountain one blustery day and it was a great experience. It was definitely tough, especially with the wild weather near the summit, but we got some great views, got some good fresh air and exercise, and enjoyed our first real physical challenge of the trip!

Great Southern

Bluff Knoll-doesn’t it look like something from a fantasy film?

As a result of the crazy rain we’ve had over the past week some sections of the trail were pretty water logged. It was cool to be able to fill our water bottles at the waterfalls though!

Great Southern

The freshest water imaginable!

So that’s our guide to the free attractions of the Great Southern! Our plan was to move on to Esperance after a few days in Albany, but due to some crazy flooding and road closures we’re not sure when we’ll make it there. For now we’re hanging out at Shelley’s beach campground, just down the road from Cosy Corner. This site isn’t free-it’s 7.50 per person per night- but we love the crystal clear water here and it’s quite sheltered from the wind. We’re not quite sure what we’ll do next, so be sure to follow us on facebook, instagram and twitter to keep up to date. You can also sign up to our newsletter in the sidebar. Happy travelling!

our migration patterns

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Buying a car in Australia

If you’re planning on traveling in Australia for anymore than a month or two it might be most cost effective for you to buy a vehicle instead of renting. Camper van rental prices in Australia are very high, particularly if you’re travelling one way. When we started to look at the cost of renting a campervan for a few months we quickly realized it would make more sense to just buy one. So that’s what we did!
There’s a whole host of backpacker vehicles out there, from vans to four wheel drives to sedans. But the process of buying a car in a new country can be a bit daunting! So here are our top tips for buying a car in Australia.

Gumtree is your best friend

Gumtree is a nationwide buy and sell website. Just search for backpacker cars and you’ll find a huge amount of cars kitted out for travel. People often sell their cars with stoves, tents, camping chairs and lots of other travel accessories included. Our four wheel drive came with a roof rack, Jerry cans, a stove, camping chairs and lots of cooking equipment. The price of backpacker cars varies, with vans and 4x4s costing a fair bit more than station wagons. Our 1997 Pajero cost us $3,500.

Buying a car in Australia

Our 4×4 already had a bed in the back!

Registration is important

Registration (or rego as it’s unaffectionately called) is what legally allows you drive on the road. It’s a fee you pay every 3,6, or 12 months that includes third party insurance. If a car’s rego expires and isn’t renewed within a certain frame of time it needs to undergo a safety inspection to be re-registered. These safety inspections tend to be very strict and for this reason buying an unregistered car is a pretty big risk-you have no idea how many things you’ll need to fix! Because of this unregistered cars sell for just a few hundred dollars.

Buying a car in Australia

There’s nothing like the open road!

Registration varies from state to state

Unfortunately, registration is not a nationwide program. Each state has its own rules and regulations about registration. This can be annoying for travellers driving one way-trying to sell a car that’s been registered in a different state can be difficult! That’s because if someone wants to re-register if in that state they will usually need to get it inspected.

When we bought our Mitsubishi Pajero it was registered in the state of Victoria. We could have transferred the Victorian rego into our names but we would need to have a Victorian license number to put on the forms. The other option was to visit a Victorian department of transport in person and register it there. Because we weren’t travelling for a while we decided to just re-register it to the state of Western Australia.

Buying a car in Australia

To register the car in our state we needed to undergo a safety inspection. This didn’t bother us much as we’ll be travelling for a year and we don’t want to have any major problems with the car anyway! It is a bit expensive though, as each inspection costs around $80. We failed the first inspection because of a few small issues but passed the second one with flying colours 😉 we then got new license plates and paid the registration fee for 12 months. The cost of registration varies based on your car and state-WA is apparently the cheapest state and has the added bonus of being able to renew your rego online. Some states require you to undergo yearly safety inspections. Read more about each state’s requirements in the links below.

Western Australia


New South Wales

South Australia


Northern Territory


Ask the right questions

Obviously no matter where you are in the world it’s important to ask the right questions when you buy a car. Ask to see the service history, ask what issues the previous owners had, ask what the fuel economy is like. Check what kind of thread the tyres have-especially if you’re travelling for a short time, tyres are an expensive thing to replace! If you’ll be travelling to hot desert areas it’s important to ask if the engine has issues with overheating. When you test drive the car check the windscreen wipers, cruise control, and listen for any unusual noises.

What to do once you’ve bought your car!

Once you’ve bought your car you have two weeks to transfer the registration from the previous owner’s name to yours. You can download the registration transfer forms from the relevant state’s website or visit the department of transport and register there. Once you’ve registered you have nothing else to worry about! Just be sure to renew your rego before it expires!

Be aware of the local driving laws- speed limits can differ from state to state! Try not to drive late at night in rural areas as you run a serious risk of hitting a kangaroo or other wildlife, which can seriously damage your car. Remember that by taking care of your car you increase your chance of selling it. I’ve heard of travelers reselling their cars for a profit at the end of their trips!

Have you ever bought a car in a foreign country? What was your experience? Be sure to let us know in the comments!

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I Didn’t Choose The Van life, The Van Life Chose Me

Long before the van life movement began, long before Instagram’s obsession with “tiny homes”, and very long before the creation of this blog, a much younger version of me was spending her summers in a little caravan. At the beginning there were four of us traveling around Ireland for weeks at a time. Then we grew to five and our explorations extended across Europe, as far as Croatia. I didn’t know it at the time but these annual adventures were planting a deeply rooted love of travel within me. A love for temporary homes, for meeting new friends, for roadtrip music. A love for spending a week somewhere new, falling head over heels for it, and then moving on to the next wonderful destination.

Van Life

Back When I was Cute

Rediscovering The Van Life

Those trips are some of my best child hood memories. But, as childhood memories do, they faded over time. In all honesty I forgot how much I loved to camp, how much I loved the open road, how much I loved “tiny homes” until our road trip in California earlier this year, when we spend 16 nights in an Escape Camper Van. On our first night in Joshua Tree national park I was hit with a wave of nostalgia. As much as we loved travelling by rail and staying in hostels in Europe, it was this type of travel, this “van life”, that I really loved. I love the closeness to nature, the simplicity, the peace. And when we started to plan our next trip I knew this was the only way we wanted to travel.

Van life

So excited to start living in Jerry the Pajero!

Looking Forward

And from there the idea just evolved. We started off wanting to rent a camper for six weeks and travel as far as Broome. From there we realised it would be more cost-effective to just buy a camper. And from there we decided to extend our trip, and spend six months travelling around Australia. And now we are planning a trip with no definite end point, travelling all around the country and living off the grid while working on farms along the way. We’re not really certain what this trip will hold for us, but we know this is the kind of travel that best suits us. And, unlike in California, we have no deadlines, no schedule, and no return planes to catch! And that’s a really great feeling.

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Why we’ve Chosen Domestic Travel

As we look forward to our year long trip around Australia I thought we’d share some of the reasons we decided to travel domestically. Domestic travel can seem unappealing for a host of reasons. People often travel to experience other cultures, and we can understand why so many people choose to avoid domestic travel. But we really believe everyone should do some domestic travel at some point in their lives! There’s a whole beautiful world out there and we want to see it all, but there’s a number of reasons for why we decided to stay in Australia.


No expensive flights

On most international trips your biggest singular  expense will be your international flights! Our flights from Perth to Dublin cost us $1600AUD each, and our flights to America cost even more. When you travel domestically any flights you take will be much cheaper, and you don’t necessarily need to fly at all. We’ll be doing our trip around Australia in our four wheel drive. This cost us $3,500 and will be our transportation and our accommodation for our entire trip! That’s a pretty big saving!

Domestic Travel

Jerry the Four Wheel Drive!

We’ve also got the added bonus of not having to worry about the weight of our luggage, extra airline fees, or any liquid or food restrictions. We want to travel lightly but we have a lot more room for any extra things we might need.


No visas

Visa applications can get complicated, costly, and stressful. I’m lucky to have a  European passport which gives me greater access to other countries, but not everyone is as lucky. If you’ve got a passport that restricts your travel in foreign countries then domestic travel is a great option! You’ll save yourself time and money.


No travel insurance

Travel insurance is one of those costs that people often overlook when planning a trip. Paying for something that you hope you never need can suck, but it would be awful to be in a bad situation and regret not buying it. Many countries now require you to have travel insurance upon entering. The great thing about travelling domestically is that you don’t need to get travel insurance! Your regular health insurance should cover you for any potential accidents. In Australia we have good public health care and we know that if any problems do arise we won’t find ourselves paying an insane medical bill, like we would have in America.


No roaming charges

Another thing you can cross off your to-do list- roaming plans. You won’t need to pay extra for a roaming plan, unlock your phone, or buy a cheap phone at your destination; because your current plan will work just fine! Now you’re obviously not going to plan your holiday around your phone plan (or maybe you do, I’m not judging!) but it’s a nice bonus that saves you money and takes one less stress off your plate.


Environmentally friendly

Unfortunately flying to the other side of the world has a big impact on the environment. All those miles in the air equal lots of burning fuel, and lots of burning fuel equals lots of carbon emissions! By opting to travel closer to home your travels can be that little bit greener!


No foreign languages

It’s great to be able to visit new countries, pick up parts of other languages and muddle your way through interacting with others. But sometimes it can be exhausting! If you’re bilingually challenged like myself the idea of learning a new language is not only daunting but potentially impossible. When you travel your own country it’s a nice break from struggling to read menus and trying to remember if “sortie” means entrance or exit!



No currency exchange/bank card issues

This is a cool one because it’s one less thing to put on your pre-travel to do list! When travelling internally you won’t need to exchange currency, get a travel card, or organise anything extra with your bank. And when you arrive at your destination you won’t spend an embarrassingly long time trying to count your cash out at the check out!

Domestic Travel

Australia is so beautiful!

See your own backyard!

We have been in Australia for a fair chunk of our lives now and we’ve still seen the tiniest portion of it! How many times have you met someone while traveling who’s seen more of your native country than you have? How many times has someone asked you for recommendations on what to see and you’ve been clueless? It’s a great thing to be able to experience and explore your own country. It can enrich your understanding of your own culture and your own environment, and it helps you to appreciate your own unique place in the world. That’s why we’ve chosen to experience domestic travel together before we add any new countries to our list!

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